One of my favorite things to make in a kitchen is a sandwich. I mean a thick, meaty sandwich that’s crunchy, crispy, meaty, tender and juicy, served on two slabs of firm, fragrant bread that’s neither tough nor soggy, with vegetables to balance out the meal. In the right hands, a sandwich is a timeless work of art and a portable comfort food.
Sandwiches aren’t just for lunch; they’re eaten for breakfast and served with afternoon tea; they fed the railyard workers along the West Side and poor striking boys in New Orleans; they are small enough to pick up with two fingers and can be as tall as a man. Sandwiches are universal and regional: tell me what you call them and I’ll tell you where you’re from: hoagie? hero? sub? New Yorkers love their pastrami on rye at Katz’s while in Philly, the cheesesteak reigns supreme (and who knows which battle is more heated: Pat’s vs. Geno’s or New York vs. Philly as the birthplace of the HERO). But if you want to try something new and exciting, with flavors that will transport you to the lush tropical forests and beaches of Venezuela, then try the yoyos atCachapas Y Mas.
First, this is a yoyo:

No bread here, since the yoyo is a sandwich native to Venezuela, where the plantain rules. A yoyo starts with a deep fried ripened plantain— a maduro, NOT a toston— in place of bread. One would think the fried plantain would be too soft to support the grilled meats, juices and special sauces that go into this sandwich, but the yoyo solves this problem by being stuffed with cheese, dipped in a batter, and fried until golden and crispy. Now it’s firm enough to hold the grilled chicken or pernil with their spicy juices blanketed with two special sauces with fresh green leaf lettuce and ripe tomatoes. The plantains give the sandwich a sweet taste with a crisp texture, while the inside is savory, tender and so juicy, you reach for a napkin after each bite. It’s not a sloppy sandwich, per se, but the yoyo is so rich you’ll find yourself licking each finger between each bite.
If the yoyo looks and sounds similar to a patacon (or jibarito, if you’re Puerto Rican), then you’re headed in the right track, except that the patacon is made with tostones (twice-fried plantains) and not at all dipped in batter. This renders the patacon completely different in flavor and texture and is therefore another type of sandwich, although equally as delicious. Sometimes it’s difficult to choose between the two, but I tend to order the yoyo for lunch and the patacon for dinner since it pairs well with a mojito. All in all, both the yoyoand the patacon are unique sandwiches full of flavor, opening up the possibilities of sandwichdom. Go beyond the bread and head for Cachapas Y Mas to try them for yourself.
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